Show ghouL om n To lb Look kii I j X S The Question of La Garonne or br Frilly Feminine Frocks That i rv y Is Causing Belligerency Among v vIs wr Paris Fas Fashion lon D Dictator rs V j and Stirring Them Th to I I 1 A j em o f L Action d 4 Mr I 1 fr I 0 ti tir r z Y 0 i L I 1 T 0 s j v o Mme 1 Mme Cyber the Paris poet poet-d poet dress ess- ess 4 Iti fi y 0 0 0 i maker who condemned and kIlled On the right right- ri ht- ht fi 1 the and has haa mobilized 0 I Mlle Mile Danita x o I a an army 0 of f celebrities ce I e b In in behalf b e h a If 0 of f showing the oJ 0 r the t h eterna eternal I f feminine e 0 Pt Gar con n e f r t bov- bov irl til By CARL DE VIDAL HUNT PARIS NEW revolution is on in Paris a A ANEW 9 revolution that started in the great shops of fashion and is now spreading with the rapidity of a conflagration conflagration gration in ever quarter of the city The uprising is not so sanguinary as that of 1792 which sent the proudest heads of France to the guillotine but it is of more significance to the rest of the civilized d world since it concerns a declaration of war against English and American in- in influences in in dressmaking The movement is aimed at the boyish effect known as the line in fashion and openly blames the women of America and America and England for the spread of masculinity in feminine apparel Fa- Fa Famous Famous Fa Famous artists and dramatists have joined the ranks of the dressmakers with Mme Cyber as a modem modern Joan of Arc in the lead and a terrific struggle for the supremacy of the eternal feminine is imminent Mme Dime Cyber started things with a proclamation in the Paris press calling for a concerted movement against the of the Other noted dressmakers promptly espoused the cause of femininity in women's garments and now the whole Paris dress dress- dressmaking dressmaking dressmaking making establishments are arc solid against anything in women that is not femi seductive The question involve involve- involves the following issues Should a wom women woman n show her knees in public Should she walk firmly or with an air of abandon Should her hair be cut long or short Should her r gowns expose too much of oher her figure figure- figure Should she be boyish or girlish iThe The tempest started when Mme Cyber sent out from her place in the Place do de lOpera a whirlwind of protestations s against women that wanted to look like men liar Her declarations were picked up by the entire press of Paris and echoed In special interviews published here Tristan Bernard the greatest humor humor- humorist humorist humorist of France gave his viewpoints in his light and airy style favoring light and airy apparel Bourdelle the well known sculptor spoke with affected sorrow of his own legs that were hidden from view by a pair of ugly trousers Vincent dindy the composer broke a alace alace alace lace for the symphony of rhythm in feminine attire Van Dongen the painter of modern modem nudes claimed that the female figure should have no mysteries Victor author of La said that no influence would ever cyer destroy the exquisite femininity in Parisian women Col Colette tte the celebrated author of Claudine had her say about short hair lacy and so 0 forth And Henry Bernstein author of The Thief frankly admitted that he loves the present day styles because they mir mir- mirror mir mir- mirror mirror French sensibilities and are made to attract and please men Mme started the ball rolling roiling with the following dictum which Mme Cy Cy- Cyber x Der ber denounces f t I 3 as a phase of womans woman's post post- postwar r 4 e 4 y war rev 0 I t h 1 r t g t tt y t which has now ter 4 v t 1 passed p J 0 Y 1 7 I 1 amusement and that the new thrills will come from sweetness and light The first step toward Perla Par is this end among Paris dress dress- dressmakers t s makers is to emphasize the sculptors rs feminine Those in favor s of the masculino masculine are die die- die die hards and com com- co bards hards I r know but they will wm posers yield in the long run Skirts m t disagree e ethis this summer will be as short in their as ever of course but there thero will be ae approval I modifications on the a The skirt ikirt which works up over the knee when the wearer is sitting down is isa isan P soP a own an abomination There is nothing so here distressing even to onlookers as a dress an ex- ex ex ea that must be pulled down constantly tre el Fortunately we have found a way to boyish remedy this thi We can cm be practical beau beau- beautiful 1 pus and nd yet not lose that which is IB the greatest feminInity charm charm femininity t I am not against suits or orT sporting togs toga When a woman plays playa golf gol T or tennis she should be tx dressed to give her limbs all the freedom required But after her bath when when she sits siu down to breakfast with her husband she ehe should vIo be dressed so 50 as to attract him with feminine charms No man in good health I killed La I decreed her demise because a masculine woman is unbeautiful Only beauty can live The war war after spirit of mannish ways jeweled cigarette holder cynical speech and your own your roll stockings must give way to charm feminine charm as can be expressed alone in truly feminine garb The style Is a pathological craze crue a nervous sign of world unrest among women a sudden swing after the armistice toward delirious pleasure The women Seem Seem-ed seemed to crave freedom the kind that men enjoy in their relations with women and the various styles were the consequence Some women looked well enough in them but most of th them m appeared about as graceful in their tube skirts as a pair of Oxford bags I am convinced that th the whole world is soon to swing away from the post post- post armistice armistice delirium and on toward a saner outlook on life Folly may still reign but it will be a folly of a different kind kindI I believe the last drop of excitement has been squeezed out of jazz and hectic and with normal emotions will ever care for a woman who looks mannish Tristan Bernard was discovered by your correspondent in his pretty villa near the Bois de Boulogne in the act of trying to solve a word cross problem I asked him to speak seriously of women's taste in fashion and he said The present style is very agreeable very interesting Every man will be glad to know that women will continue this summer to show their legs and feet In Inthe Inthe Inthe the old days when skirts were longer the stockings and boots of women were not so pretty because they were hidden Now women are compelled to wear pretty hose and shoes Even the poorest has nice shoes and stockings No there can be no such thing as an invasion of American and English Ideas in style Did you ever hear of a woman imposing her ideas of fashion upon a dressmaker be she English American French or It has been my impression that tho the women accept the Ideas of the dressmakers and then pass them on to their own seamstresses These are very happy to get the ideas of the great dressmakers and the next thin thing that happens is that artists like Cyber and others must in- in invent in invent vent yent new fashions so no one can say Eay they are copying the little seamstresses Of course I am for femininity Everything in women's clothes that is not light and airy to my mind is be- be beneath be beneath neath notice We want to notice women but there must be bo something to attract our aU attention nUon For instance their stockings stock stock- stockings stockings ings There la lis nothing so Interesting as asa asa asa a womans woman's stocking if it reveals a shapely ankle and a fine knee I would surely vote against longer dresses if it came to a national issue Of course women should be girlish They should show in their walk that they are women A languorous stride ia JI much more fascinating than a vigorous one We dont don't want to wrestle with women we want to succumb to them Bourdelle the great master of sculpture sculpture sculpture ture had with him Vincent dIndy the genius of musical composition when I called at his studio He said Ah fashion what a wonderful thing I love fashion fashion I love it because at last we can see the female figure again That's what fashion is for What is there m more more re beautiful than the female figure The short skirts the low necks the bare what arms arms what can there be more entrancing I could enjoy a little more hair however The subtle fragrance of ofa ofa ofa a womans woman's uncoiled hair ah how do- do delightful de delightful it used to be The musical genius genius nodded approval I dont don't like these shaven necks he said with their rough little black specks like a two weeks beard It abnormaL is 3 I would like to sec see women dress like Mme dc do Sevie-ne Sevie This called for a protest on the part of Bourdelle Nonsense he cried Mme Mme de Se- Se Sevigne Sevigne vigne Se-vigne vigne has been dead years and if she ste came back to life lite day to-day she would at once jump out of her petticoats and slip into transparent evening gowns Look at my own legs plaintively A Paris 3 the frock of l r the distinctly dis- dis S feminine 1 dc l style Z jF with R 7 i y which fl AAi t H dress dress- Paris makers dressmakers L i hope to c combat r the yb invasion foreign i if of too w masculine linea look at them in these ugly trousers I am forced to wear Could anyone any one guess that Ive I've got the finest finst legs in the world I say leave it to the women in the mat mat- matter matter matter ter of taste Matire van Dongen celebrated painter of modern women was shocked to hear bear that Americans are threatening to swamp Paris with their taste for masculine masculine line attire He said English and American women come cometo cometo cometo to Paris Parl to buy Parisian clothes If they wanted to wear American made American made or Eng Eng- English Eng Eng- English English lish frocks they would stay at hom homo home and order their wardrobes there Evening gowns that bear the stamp of femIninity are arc a delight to the male eye and the style is doomed to die Mme Colette the famous author and dramatist had interesting things to say Masculine influences should be fought tooth and nail she said Present styles are perfect perfect- At last one can move and twist inside of a dress It is happiness at last Never was dress more moro intelli intelli- intelligent intelligent intelligent gent I am not speaking of boots for that is b the weak point in the present fashion Slippers made mostly of beads and petrified lace are very flattering nattering to the feet but extremely hostile to walk walk- walking walking walking ing But that's another story To think that men mere men want to criticize our why dresses dresses why the J poor dear things are taking too many responsibilities responsibilities responsibilities indeed My advice to women is Bother the critics Victor author of the seo- seo sen rational book La Ia showed himself a patriotic enthusiast for femi femi- femininity femi- femi femininity femininity and the prompt death of the gar gar- gar conne style The heroine Monique in La Gar Gar- Gar conne ho said wid is not a girl typical of France but an image of women as liS the great master Van Dongen Dong n paints them Indeed I would be sorry to see women lose their most seductive charm feml charm femi femininity Women from other countries be it America or England cannot en- en endanger endanger en endanger danger the fashions of Paris Our styles are the true mirror of our national spirit spirit our youth and gayety in the midst of adversity Henri Bernstein perhaps the greatest dramatist of the age expressed himself in a similar vein I cannot see beauty in the style although I am inclined to admire anything that women wear Usually feminine fashion justifies itself in some mysterious way The styles of of today day to that reveal so much of the female figure are are the expression of our sensibilities of masculine desires and impatience Fash Fash- Fashion Fash- Fash Fashion Fashion ion was invented to please the kind of men that we are Styles for women change as we e change and are always beautiful Our aspirations our tastes our passions even recreate fashions at a moments moment's notice Something in a new style always will appeal to us as the perfect expression of ofa ofa ofa a fleeting moment 0 i 1121 Is br b Jo r rOAl too Ina AM J I |